Free Shipping Within Australia On Orders Over $200

0

Your Cart is Empty

AN078 Canine or Puppy Homeopathic Kit (herbal antibiotic, oral Immunisation, heartworm prevention ...)

Code: AN078

  • Great for your new puppy or rescued dog.
  • Supporting the immune system safely
  • The kit will last several years or longer
  • For all ages and size canines.
Canine Kit
10 Homeopathic and Herbal Antibiotic
* To reorder single remedies after first purchase login to your account to order history.
  • Great for your new puppy or rescued dog.
  • Supporting the immune system safely
  • The kit will last several years or longer
  • For all ages and size canines.
Canine Kit
10 Homeopathic and Herbal Antibiotic
* To reorder single remedies after first purchase login to your account to order history.
  • Australian orders will also receive a nationwide list of recommended "Boarding Kennels" that recognise natural oral nosode Immunizations.

    One homeopathic Canine Kit may assist with MULTIPLE households of pets.

    Shelf life for several keep years, providing remedies are keep away from direct sunlight, microwaves, strong odours. An instruction leaflet is included in the homeopathic kit. Refer to the booklet for the frequency of remedies to be given in cases of acute conditions, chronic or prevention. The homeopathic pills can be made into liquid medicines and put on the body, orally or in food or water bowl.

    What are Nosodes?
    Nosodes are specialized homeopathic remedies that are prepared by taking the actual diseased matter from a sick animal such as diseased tissue or nasal discharge. The preparation of a nosode involves a lengthy process of succussion and dilution of the original material using traditional homeopathic protocols until virtually no molecules of the crude substance remain, rendering the nosode safe for use. This process, called potentization, inactivates the original disease substance and converts the material into a bioenergetic remedy which interacts with the body's energy field. The final product is a potent remedy that is an energetic blueprint of the actual disease.

    Human Nosode Research
    Dr. Isaac Golden, an Australian homeopath, has done extensive research in the field of homeopathic childhood immunizations. Working directly with families who agreed to participate in a clinical trial of typical childhood diseases, Dr. Golden concluded that homeopathic immunizations were 90.4% effective. From 2001 to 2004, Dr. Golden also studied vaccine safety compared to homeopathic immunizations. He found that children who received standard vaccines were 15 more times likely to get asthma, 7 times more likely to get eczema and 2 times more likely to get allergies than those who were immunized by homeopathic preparations. His work is published in his groundbreaking books,

    Vaccination and Homeoprophylaxis:
    A Review of Risks and Alternatives and Homeoprophylaxis: A Ten Year Clinical Study

    Homeopathic Immunization in Dogs
    Dr. Christopher Day, a British veterinary homeopath, has been using nosodes in his practice for 35 years. Evidence of reduced rates of distemper, hepatitis, leptospirosis, parvovirus and kennel cough has encouraged him to recommend nosodes to his clients for prevention and treatment of disease. In 1985, Dr. Day documented the successful use of nosodes in a kennel cough outbreak. The trial was done in a daycare and there were 214 dogs participating, including both vaccinated and unvaccinated dogs. The nosode was introduced by placing it in the dogs drinking water. Remarkably, out of a total of 214 dogs that were treated with the kennel cough nosode, the incidence of actual, full-blown disease was only 1.9% out of 214 dogs, and the majority of dogs who did contract kennel cough exhibited only minor symptoms. The vaccinated dogs had a higher incidence of disease at 4.7% whereas only 0.7% of the unvaccinated dogs showed symptoms. Minor symptoms were expressed by 42.5% of the dogs, with 59.7% of vaccinated dogs showing minor symptoms, compared to 26.7% of unvaccinated dogs. This study shows that nosodes can be effective in disease prevention, and when dogs do contract disease, the severity of symptoms can be reduced with their use.   The nosodes do not produce a titer response.  

    Vaccine Options
    Titre Test

    No pet should ever be re-vaccinated, not ever, without a “Titre test” to see if it's actually needed.

    Dr Edward (Australian vet) ... says "Seroconversion and titre testing is well and truly validated scientifically (and is definite proof of positive disease protection status after vaccination, no matter what age the puppy, kitten or dog, cat in question - and the chances of a false positive are very, very low)".  

    Some vets who send them away charge a hell of a lot for it though, way too much.

     
    Ask your vet to order the Biogal brand VacciCheck in-house titre test kit.  

    Biogal brand - VacciCheck® Antibody Test Kit
  (is a new method)  which is a simple and affordable in-clinic titer test designed to monitor serological status and vaccination failure to prevent over-vaccination consequences. 

    VacciCheck provides reliable and accurate results in just 21 minutes!  

    AVAILABLE by request from a Vet Clinic.  Or let your Vet know about it.  

    Biogal brand - VacciCheck® Antibody Test Kit

    USA -  www.VacciCheck.com  
    Australia - Give these details to your Vet - Laboratories Diagnostics NSW. 
    Contact: Sonia Whittle Tel: 61-2-9668-0600 Website: www.labdiagnostics.com.au

    Find a Vet who is willing to help you provide the safest inexpensive way of keeping your pet well.

    If your pet has seroconverted, no matter what their age, they do not need another vaccination.  Nor do they need a 'booster' at a year old, as they already have long-lasting immunity.  Dr. Edwards has titre test puppies 2 weeks after initial vaccination if it's positive then they need no more vaccinations  (So - any dog or cat, of any age, can be titre tested 2 weeks after any C3 vaccination.  If your puppy is going to respond, it will have by then.  He has titre tested several puppies after their first vaccination like this, and they've had strongly positive titre levels. Any further vaccinations for these puppies (or kittens) would have been completely unnecessary and may have caused the puppy in question harm. 

    The whole 'booster' thing is really a false way to describe it - nearly all the so-called 'booster' vaccinations administered to our pets are completely unnecessary. 

    There is no need for a so-called 'booster' vaccination a year after the puppy or your kittens vaccinations.
    NO PET SHOULD EVER BE RE - VACCINATED, NOT EVER, WITHOUT A TITRE TEST TO SEE IF IT'S ACTUALLY NEEDED.
    It makes no difference what country you live in, either.


    Vaccine Efficacy

    Data from the Virbac Disease Watchdog show that 28% of vaccinated puppies and 11% of vaccinated adults still get Parvo. There are a variety of reasons for this but the most common is the presence of maternal antibodies.

    When puppies are very young, they are protected from disease by ingesting their mother’s first milk, called colostrum.  This rich milk contains maternal antibodies against disease, which the mother passes down to her puppies. The puppy’s immune system is not fully mature, or active, until it is around six months of age, so the maternal antibodies provide passive immunity against disease for each puppy.

    When a puppy with a reasonable amount of maternal antibodies is vaccinated, the maternal antibodies will essentially inactivate the vaccine, just as it would a real virus. What they can’t do however, is protect the puppy against the chemical soup in vaccines including mercury, aluminium and formaldehyde in addition to foreign proteins and possibly retroviruses. The adjuvants are designed to stimulate an ex- aggregated immune response, to make certain that the body responds to the small amount of virus contained in the vaccine. Unfortunately, this heightened reaction can also cause auto- immune disorders, which are affecting an increasingly large number of dogs.

    Vets and pet owners used to believe that ‘more is better’ when it came to vaccines, but most now know that there are very real dangers associated with vaccination. So, when design- ing a puppy vaccination schedule, the goal is to catch the small window in time when the maternal antibodies are low enough that they will not block the vaccine, but the puppy is young enough that he is not put in unnecessary danger from exposure to viruses in the environment.

    Maternal antibodies weaken over time but the  rate  of weakening differs between different dogs and even different breeds. The maternal antibodies for Parvo are unpredictable in their decline and can last as long as 26 weeks in some dogs. This lack of predictability is why puppies are vaccinated every two to four weeks until 16 weeks of age.

    The important point is that it only takes one vaccination to protect a puppy from Parvo (or any other virus).  Vets are fond of stating that the first vaccine primes the immune system and the second one creates the immunity. This is rubbish. If delivered when the maternal antibodies are low enough to allow an immune response, it only takes one vaccination to protect your puppy and this fact has been common knowledge for over thirty years.

    Another reason for vaccine failure is exposure to the actual virus.   Whether you vaccinate or not, your puppy should not be exposed to areas where Parvo can be transmitted.   This includes dog parks; busy pet stores and, the most likely place to be exposed to Parvo, the veterinary clinic.

    By giving your puppy a series of vaccinations, not only are you needlessly creating a greater toxin load and subsequent illness, you are also exposing him to the environment in which he is most likely to pick up Parvo.

    Vanguard tested the Parvovirus response in their  combination  High Titer vaccine. They vaccinated puppies at 6 weeks, 9 weeks and 12 weeks of age and then measured their response to the vaccine by measuring their titers to Parvovirus. At 6 weeks, only 52% of the puppies had seroconverted (developed an immune response).  At 9 weeks, 88% of the  puppies showed a response to the vaccine. At 12 weeks, 100% of the puppies were protected.

    The practice of vaccinating puppies at 6 to 8 weeks of age is a high-risk, low-value proposition because the chances of the maternal antibodies blocking the vaccine are quite high, meaning you are potentially exposing your puppy to Parvo by taking him to the vet clinic, for a limited chance of vaccine success. It would be a lot safer for your puppy if you were to socialize him on the streets and keep him away from the vet’s office or dog park until he is old enough that you know the vaccine is likely to work.

    Vaccine failure can also result if the puppy is sick or stressed at the time of vaccination. Once again, it makes little sense to vaccinate a puppy at eight weeks of age. It is normally at this age when puppies are removed from their dam and littermates, are thrown into a different home environment, a different routine and fed different foods.  The chances of the puppy being sick or stressed at this point in his life are quite high, meaning that vaccine failure is more likely to happen at this age.

    Vaccine failure can also happen in puppies with suppressed immune systems.  This can occur if your puppy is on steroids or antibiotics.  Deworming can also stress the young puppy’s immune system. Finally, vaccines are a very large stress on the immune system.

    The Canine Adenovirus-2 (CAV-2) vaccine has been shown  to  cause immunosuppression in puppies for ten days after vaccination (Phillips et al, Can J Vet Res 1989). This, coupled with the fact that there have been zero cases of Canine Infectious Hepatitis in North America in at least 12 years, means that the CAV-2 component in vaccines delivers little value at a pretty large cost.  If you decide to vaccinate your puppy at 6 weeks, then it is just as likely the vaccine won’t work as it will but now he will be immunosuppressed and wide open to all manner of disease for the next ten days. Even if the vaccine does work, it will not protect your puppy immediately, meaning he is very likely to become ill if he is exposed to even small amounts of disease.

    On a related note, polyvalent vaccines (containing more than  one  disease component) also increase the risk of vaccine failure.  The more antigens contained in a vaccine, the more viral replication the puppy will experience at once, meaning his immune system might be stretched to the limit, allowing one of the antigens to develop into full blown disease – and the risk is even greater in small dogs. The immune system is a finite resource and can only be stretch so far so it is safest to avoid giving multiple antigens on one vaccine (Moore et al, JAVMA, 2005).

    Finally, improper nutrition can increase the risk of vaccine failure.   So if an animal is stressed, for example, the body will be using up resources of Vitamin C, Vitamin B5 and zinc, all of which feed stress hormones.  If these are depleted, and vaccines are designed to stress the body into mounting an immune response and developing antibodies to viruses, then (without the appropriate nutrients) the stress response cannot happen. In this circumstance, the vaccine is unlikely to work.

    Because Modified Live Vaccines (MLV) are designed to replicate in the host over a period of about ten days, the virus can multiply to the point where the immunocompromised  puppy will develop the disease you vaccinate against – because there is no or little immune system to recognise and defeat it. It is likely that most disease outbreaks occur in animal shelters because the stressed and malnourished dogs are routinely vaccinated – and vaccinated with polyvalent vaccines.  Because their already depleted immune systems are stretched to the limit, they get the disease they’re vaccinated against, and then go on to infect other dogs.

    Vets and immunologists are on record as saying that MLV cannot create disease in the host, that return to virulence can’t happen with today’s vaccines.  The problem is, they have no way of proving this because, with the exception of Rabies, nobody is checking to see whether the strain of virus infecting the dogs is the same as that from the vaccine. If they are not tracing the strain of the infectious disease, how can they say with any degree of accuracy that breaks have not occurred with the Parvo or Distemper vaccine?

    Parvo Prevention

    If you decide to not vaccinate your puppy for Parvo, there are things you can do to decrease his risk of exposure.  Homeopathic nosodes can be an effective way to protect your puppy from this disease. Avoiding vaccination in the first place is one of the best things you can do to make sure his immune system is in prime health.  If your puppy’s immune system if firing on all four cylinders, he will be able to effectively battle Parvovirus should he catch it – or not become ill if exposed to it.  In fact, the survival rate for unvaccinated puppies is higher than for vaccinated puppies because they are not immunocompromised.

    As  discussed,  proper  nutrition   and  avoiding immunosuppressive drugs and toxins is also paramount  to his success at both avoiding and recovering from Parvo. Additionally, it is important to make sure your puppy does not have a parasite overload because Parvo is much more difficult to treat in puppies with worms, giardia or coccidia.  This does not mean to worm your puppy routinely because this type of toxin can stress his immune system.  It means to keep your puppy clean, run fecal exams, and if he shows signs of parasites, then you can make the decision to treat him with herbs, diatomaceous earth, or more po- tent drugs.  It is important to note that even herbal wormers can stress the liver and immune system of dogs and puppies, so it is best to treat only if there is a problem.

    If you choose to vaccinate, do so in a manner that gives your puppy the best chance of success with the least chance of toxic overload. Current vaccination programs that begin at six to eight weeks of age, with a vaccination every three weeks or so, are hardly based on science. They are based on the premise that vaccines aren’t really that harmful and that puppy owners would rather just pay for the cheaper vaccines than to run a titer test.  If puppy owners realized the dangers of every vaccine, and the potentially high cost of associated vaccine-induced chronic disease, most would jump at the chance to titer in lieu of multiple vaccinations. Getting back to statistics, at nine weeks, 88% of the puppies in the Vanguard study showed a response to the Parvo vaccine. At 12 weeks, 100% of the puppies were protected.  Here is one case scenario where titers actually have good predictive value.  If you vaccinate your puppy once, and as close to 12 weeks as you are comfortable, and then run a titer three weeks later, then the titer has the ability to determine whether your puppy has seroconverted or not. If there is any amount of circulating antibody, no matter how small, then your puppy is protected for life and there is no need for further vaccination.

    Regardless of what your vet may claim or what you read on Google, your puppy does not need a booster once he acquires protection – immunity is an all-or-nothing thing when it comes to viruses (with the exception of bacterial viruses such as Leptospirosis).  
    Like the Chicken Pox or Measles, you are either immune or you are not.  Some people developed their immunity through exposure and some developed immunity through vaccination. Regardless, once exposed to either the actual virus or the vaccine, you are protected for life and so is your puppy. You must however wait at least three weeks before running the titer to know if your puppy is protected:  the vaccine will partially inhibit titer levels until the immune system adjusts and this takes three to four weeks.

    This is a very reasonable approach to vacci- nation and gives your puppy the best chance of avoiding more than one vaccination.  The vaccine itself is also of great significance and don’t be afraid to question your vet on which vaccine he intends to use on your puppy.  It is important that there are as few antigens in the vaccine as possible –vaccines with only one or two antigens in them will both increase the chance that your puppy seroconverts and reduce the risk of adverse event.  Sadly, there is no longer a monovalent Distemper vaccine. Schering-Plough however, still produces a Parvo-Distemper only vaccine and this would be the best choice for puppies.

    If you run a titer after the initial vaccination (which is hopefully not at six to eight weeks), and your puppy has responded to the Distemper but not the Parvo, then there are plenty of monovalent Parvo vaccines on the market including Neopar, Schering-Plough Intervet or Pfizer. Make sure your vet has these in stock before you get your puppy so you are prepared.  If you have to buy the whole lot to get your single vaccine, then buy the whole lot and consider it a donation to a good cause and give your vet permission to use it on other puppies.

    It is important that you understand the good, the bad and the ugly when it comes to Parvo vaccination.  It is not a simple shot that will miraculously save your puppy from disease and save you from thousands of dollars in veterinary care.  It is a complicated topic with a complicated solution – and, regardless which decision you make, potentially unwanted consequences.   Identify Parvo for the enemy it is but don’t allow fear to paralyze you.  Most importantly, don’t allow anyone to make this important decision for you because once you decide to vaccinate, you can never go back.  Arm yourself with knowledge and prepare yourself for Parvo’s presence and you will be ready for it and in a good position to help your puppy defeat this enemy.  


    REFERENCE  
    Dr Patricia Jordan  lectures extensively and  has written novels on vaccine damage for dogs. www.dr-jordan.com/ 
    Catherine O’Driscoll. Canine Health Concern at: www.canine-health-concern.org.uk/  
    Dogs Naturally Magazine. Article 2011

  • Non Drug CANINE Prescriptions Kit

    1. HAMPL Tick Bite Paralysis (for AUST only)

    2. HAMPL Lyme Tick Oral Nosode

    3. HAMPL Sting & Bite

    4. HAMPL Injury Surgery

    5. HAMPL Heartworm 239  (treat or prevention)

    6. HAMPL ParaExpel *Intestinal parastic cleansing

    7. HAMPL Liver Detox and Regeneration

    8. HAMPL Pet Calm Eze

    9. HAMPL Herbal Antibiotic 30ml

    10. HAMPL Canine Oral Nosodes

    11. HAMPL Rabies Oral Nosode (for USA orders Only)

    Canine Immunization Certificate Included

  • General Dosing and Instructions 
Guide

    For all species, size, and ages.

    HOMEOPATHIC MEDICINES

    (a) “HOMEOPATHICS” are sold in either a clear liquid or tiny white pills or granules – both have no odour or taste)

Easy “application dosing” for all species:

    • Homeopathic DROPS (clear liquid) DRIP or APPLY 3 to 4 drops, pat into fur/skin with bottom of bottle. i.e. back of shoulder blades (not orally) which is regarded as one dose for all size species and ages. Note: Liquid homeopathics are more suited for feline, toy dog, fish, birds and other small species
    • Homeopathic PILLS (white pills) crush a pill (or whole) and add to gum/pouch of mouth to dissolve in saliva. Does not need to swallow it.
    • Homeopathic GRANULES (white grain) and a small light sprinkle or a pinch to meals, or stir into water trough or bowl.
      Casual repeat dosing can add to water bowl or feed dish or water trough for wildlife or farm animals.

    Refer to Bottle Label for suggested frequencies repeat dosing needed per day.
    NOTE: 
 the rule is one must “repeat a dose” more frequently with less time in between each application dose, which is more important than the amount given each time. Repeat application will provide 

faster action.

    HERBAL MEDICINES

    (b) “HERBAL MEDICINES ” (brown liquid – strong odour & tasting) 
”Application dosing” for all species: 
Canine, equine, cow, sheep, goat : add herbal drops (as recommended on bottle label) to some (unsweetened apple sauce or apple juice) for canines and oral syringe side of mouth. Can add other vitamins (crushed) Alkaline green powders etc. to mix. Refer to: Bottle Label for amount of drops per species size.

Feline, toy dog, rabbit, or other small animals: add 3 – 4 drops of the brown herbal formula add 1 teaspoon of hot water from kettle, let cool, add another teaspoon of cold water, then oral dose side of mouth – with small sips at a time until 1ml is taken.

    What I do for example: If I was needing to give herb treatments and/or vitamin supplements to feline or toy dog or other small animals – I add this herbal formula to a small bowl add some boiled water (about a teaspoon) to it so to dissolve the alcohol in it, let cool, then add what vitamins If needed (powder or crushed tab – a pinch) mixed in another 50ml of water, and oral syringe once a day or twice a day …smear on a little “vegemite paste” (if cannot get Vegemite in your country, try fresh pate or slippery elm powder added can help mask the taste) around and on tip of oral syringe, as felines seem to real like the taste of this paste, but not too much as it is quite a strong taste)

    NUTRITION

    (c) “NUTRITIONAL Mix 
” 
Giving vitamins and supplements (tablets or powders) NB. Always crush tablet before adding to food or liquid mix.
Felines or small animals: make up 1/4 cup of mixture, adding approx. a pinch of some type of Green powder (alkaline powder) or Chlorella powder (cleansing of toxins) or Vital Greens (highly nutritional) with 10 drops of herbs if you are having to also give herbal medicines (i.e. brown liquid) (after a little hot water added to dissolve alcohol) 
Med to large animals: add twice to three times the amount.

    DOSING: Feline or small animal: using an oral syringe draw up 1ml and gently small sips. Or add a teaspoon to meals if they don’t mind eating it with meals (mix well into food) Do not put in Fridge. Room temp is best as too cold is dislike by felines.
    DOSING: Canine, equine, cow, sheep, goat: try mixing well into food and hand piece before feeding main meals. Or dose same as suggested for felines, but add three times as much herbal medicines and vitamins to 1/2 cup of water or (unsweetened) apple sauce or apple juice.

    What I do for example: If i was needing to give herb treatments and/or vitamin supplements to feline or toy dog or other small animals – I add this herbal formula to a small bowl add some boiled water (about a teaspoon) to it so to dissolve the alcohol in it, let cool, then add what vitamins If needed (powder or crushed tab – a pinch) mixed in another 50ml of water, and oral syringe once a day or twice a day …. smear on a little “vegemite paste” (if cannot get Vegemite in your country, try fresh pate or slippery elm powder added can help mask the taste) around and on tip of oral syringe, as felines seem to real like the taste of this paste, but not too much as it is quite a strong taste)

    Slippery Elm Powder
 
If needing to add or use Slippery Elm powder

    FOR CONDITIONS like …. diarrhea, stomach ulcers, or sore inflamed mouth or mouth ulcers, constipation, or IBS (i.e. colitis), plus it can also been given as a liquid meal given orally via syringe as it is highly nutritional (oral liquid feeding) for convalescing during illness when not eating solids.

    CONVALESCING ..can been given as a liquid meal given orally via syringe as it is highly nutritional (oral liquid feeding) for convalescing during illness when not eating solids or not eating very well.
~ Add a small amount of powder to the mix to enough to make a runny liquid mix, if you put too much of the powder it will become thick and gluggy, if this happens you will need to add more liquid to it. Can add crushed vitamins and herbal medicines to this as well. OPTIONS: Oral dose in syringe or add to meals three times a day or more to maintain normal health again, then can stop or reduce frequencies.

  • We Ship Worldwide

    Choice of:

    1. Express Shipping
    Australia wide and Express Courier International.

    Please allow 5-7 working days to most areas. (Remote areas will take longer time)
Express shipping orders are traceable.
    We ship internationally using Australia Post services. However, Australia Post do uses private contractors in certain countries apart from your own national courier. For example, in certain countries, the Express shipping might be carried by FedEx or UPS, even though we do not have any contract agreement with them.

    2. Normal shipping
    We can only offer normal airmail shipping (with insurance) to selected countries. Not all countries accepts normal airmail to be insured thus not offering any traceable service. You will find this option when checking out your order.
    Please allow 10 – 14 working days for delivery. (Remote areas will take longer time)
    We cannot guarantee delivery via normal airmail nor within the time estimated above.

    For more information about shipping to your designated country, go to Australia Post website at: http://auspost.com.au/apps/international-post-guide.html

  • Select a product to reorder: